Propagation of Plant through Budding
Aim of the experiment: To gain
knowledge on different methods of budding for plant propagation
Objective:
1.
To know and practice the different
methods of budding
2.
To identify budding as the
commercial method of propagation in different crops.
Materials: Rootstock, mature
bud, Mother plant, Secateur, budding knife and Plastic strips.
Relevant information:
Budding is a type of asexual plant
propagation method. The technique in which a piece of bud without wood is
placed on the matrix or smooth surface of rootstock is known as budding. Budding
is a form of grafting in which a single active bud is taken from one plant and
inserted into the stem tissue of another plant in such a way that the two will
unite and eventually develop into a single plant.
Budding has several advantages. First, it is a quick and efficient method
of propagation. Secondly, it is often the best method of economical propagating materials when these are scarce. Thirdly, it is very useful for plants to secrete excessive gum. Fourthly, budding generally strengthens unions between the rootstock and bud tissue. Lastly, it is a very simple method.
Budding is generally done when the plant is in the active growth stage or the
bark slipping stage, as the cambium is actively dividing at this time so better
union could be obtained. The mature buds that are at active growth are selected
for budding as the lower positioned buds are latent and may not grow properly
and the upper buds may be too young for budding.
There are several methods of budding: Shield or T-budding, patch budding, chip budding, micro budding, skin
budding, top budding, double working by budding and in-situ budding. There are
certain modifications of patch budding i.e., Ring budding, Flute
budding, I-budding and Forkert budding.
Shield budding/ T-budding:
This is the simplest method of budding. In this method, the boat shape of the bud is taken out by taking two obligate cuts from both ends of the bud, keeping it in the centre. If the wood is attached to the bud, it can be removed carefully by bending the bark slightly outward. One longitudinal cut slightly larger than the length of the bud is made on the smooth surface of the rootstock, preferably 15-20 cm above ground level. Sufficient space is made by bending the rootstock with the help of the bone or wood of the budding knife. The bud is placed on the matrix of the rootstock, keeping it in the same position as it is situated on the scion shoot. After placement of the bud, it should be wrapped with a suitable thickness of polythene strip (300-400 gauge). The technique is being utilized commercially in plants with thin bark. Ex.- Rose, citrus, peach, plum, apricot, almond.
This method of budding is similar to T budding. The bud is taken out from
the mature scion shoot in the same way as in the case of shield and T budding. One
longitudinal cut is made on the matrix of the rootstock, and one vertical cut
is made below the longitudinal cut. Thus, (┴ shape) is formed by the
matrix of the smooth surface of the rootstock. After carefully inserting the bud into the cut by maintaining the polarity, it will be wrapped with a suitable thickness of polythene strip, i.e., 200-300 gauge.
Patch budding:
In this method of budding, a rectangular piece of bark, along with the bud
in the centre, is taken out from the scion shoot. Two vertical cuts are made on
the top and bottom of the bud, and another two longitudinal cuts are made on the
side of the bud. The rectangular piece of bark, along with the bud, is removed with
the help of the wood of the budding knife.
Similar space is made on the smooth
surface of the rootstock of the same size. The bud is placed on the smooth surface of the rootstock in the same orientation as it was in the cion shoot to maintain the
polarity. It should be wrapped with a suitable thickness of polythene strip
immediately. The following plants can be propagated by this method such as -
Aonla, guava, bael, jackfruit, walnut, cashew nut etc.
I Budding:
It is another form of patch budding,
where the patch bud in the form of a rectangle or square is removed from the
bud stick. Then, 2 transverse cuts are made on the rootstock and they are
joined by a vertical cut, forming an I. The two flaps of bark are lifted and
the bud patch is placed underneath. The bud is then tied as usual with the
polythene strips.
Forkert budding:
This is similar to patch budding; in this method, two vertical cuts are made on the smooth surface of the rootstock, and one transverse cut is placed above the vertical cut to join them. Thus, the flap of rootstock remains is taken from one side so the flap of bark can hang. A rectangular piece of bud from the bud stick is placed on the rootstock and the whole bud is covered with a flap of rootstock and then wrapped with a polythene strip of suitable thickness. After 21-28 days, the polythene strip is removed and the flap is cut back in such a way that the bud is open for emergence. Again, the bud is wrapped with a covering that could be helpful in the maintenance of humidity and improving success. When the bud shows signs of growth, a ring is made just above the bud union to stimulate the growth of the scion bud.
Modified forkert budding:
This method is similar to forkert budding. In this method, the flap of the rootstock
is cut in such a way that the bud remains is open from the beginning; therefore no
need to open it again. This technique was adopted in the early years when banana fibres were used as wrapping materials. Since the polythene strip was discovered, this method has not been adopted.
Flute budding:
The patch of bark removed from the
rootstock almost completely encircles it except for a narrow bark connection
between the upper and lower cuts on the stock. A similar patch of bark
containing a plump and healthy bud is removed from the bud stick and placed on
the vacant area of the rootstock. The bud patch should fit the cuts
perfectly. The narrow connecting strip would help the rootstock to live even when
the bud dies.
Ring budding:
This method of budding is used for the propagation of ber, mulberry and
peaches. In certain places of India, it is commercially used for the propagation of
ber. In this method, hard-pruned vigorous shoots are used from selected shoots.
The whole flap of a small ring is removed with 4-5 buds and is taken out with
the help of teeth. The whole flap is cut back, keeping a bud in the centre in
each case i.e., on the rootstock and scion shoot. Bud is placed in the
wood portion of the rootstock. The top of the wood is cut back, giving an obligate cut
along with the bud. This method is helpful in draining rainwater. There is no
need to wrap it with a polythene strip. There will be 100% success if there is
rainfall for a week.
Chip budding:
Chip budding is practised in apples and grapes in the dormant season. Bud is taken out from the scion shoot by giving one oblique cut just above the bud and one vertical cut just below the bud and taking out the bud. A similar cut is made on the smooth surface of the rootstock, and the bud is placed and wrapped with a polythene strip of a suitable thickness.
Micro-budding:
It is similar to T Budding, except
that a very small shield of bud is used. The shield consists of a plump bud and
a small piece of wood underneath.
Skin Budding:
For skin budding, the rootstock is prepared by removing an oblong piece of
bark of about 2.0 cm in length, taking care that the cut is not exceeded into the
wood. Similarly, the current season’s bud is removed from the bud stick, and the thin silver of bark and bud is placed on the rootstock and tied with polythene tape.
This type of budding is very useful in citrus, even when the bark is not
slipping properly.
Top budding:
It is a method to rejuvenate the old and senile orchard or orchard with inferior
variety. Its objective is the same as top working in grafting. It is also adopted
in young plants to introduce new varieties. In old trees, the scaffold limbs are
cut about a year before to encourage the development of young shoots, which will be
used as rootstocks. Top budding can be done in spring in areas with mild
summer. Where the temperature in summer is high, then the rainy season is the best for
this method.
Double
working by Budding:
Budding can be adopted for
incompatible varieties by inserting a bud between the rootstock and the main
scion bud to develop the interstock. In the following year, the interstock is
budded with the desirable bud of the superior cultivar. It can also be done by
putting a budless shield piece of interstock underneath the shield bud. This is
done in one operation and serves the purpose of double working.
Budding
in-situ:
Two to three seedling rootstocks are
transplanted in each pit of the main field. These are allowed to grow for 1-3 years.
Then, budding is carried out with a convenient method. When the union is complete
and the scion bud makes some growth, the healthiest and most vigorously growing budded
plant in each pit is retained and the others are removed.
